- One unforgettable adventure,
- Two sparkling pristine lakes,
- Three inspiring trek leaders,
- Four seasons experienced in one trek
- Five pillars of support behind every step,
- Six majestic passes soaring above 5,000 meters,
- Seven shades of wonder across rainbow mountains
- Eight determined souls sharing the trail,
- Nine challenging days beneath the relentless sun,
- And countless memories etched forever in our hearts.
- That is how I sum up my 100 km walk from Rumtse to Tsomoriri. Every step challenged us, every pass humbled us, and every moment became a memory worth holding on to forever.
There are days when you gain over 1,000 meters in elevation, allowing your body to slowly adjust to the thin mountain air. At the same time, you soak in unimaginable sunsets and the profound solitude that the campsites bring.
There are other days when you walk 15 to 18 kilometers directly under the harsh Ladakhi sun, playing peek-a-boo with wild pikas and marmots. You greet the kiang, the wild donkeys of the Changthang valleys, and witness how these seemingly calm creatures fiercely defend their territories, often bullying mules and other domesticated animals.
There are moments when you find yourself gazing at your reflection in the tranquil waters of Tso Kar and Tso Moriri lakes. Those moments naturally lead you inward, making you reflect on your own journey, both on the trail and in life. Around these pristine lakes, you encounter black-necked cranes thriving in the wetlands, along with brown-headed gulls and Tibetan sand plovers. If luck is on your side, you may even spot a bearded vulture soaring high above or catch a glimpse of the elusive blue sheep.
There are days when you trek across two summits in a single day and camp above 5,000 meters, marveling at how remarkably the human body adapts to such extreme conditions. It makes you appreciate the resilience that lies within all of us.
The trails themselves are dramatic. Mineral-rich mountains reveal an astonishing palette of colors, transforming entire landscapes into what seem like natural rainbow mountains. These views are mesmerizing. You cannot help but stop, stand still, and simply absorb the magnificence of nature.
While Tso Kar which means White Lake, offers almost beach-like vibes with its vast saltwater expanse, its shores are dotted with patches of grass and wildflowers that add a surprising softness to the rugged terrain. The calls of black-necked cranes and other migratory birds echo across the lake, while the surrounding mountains create an atmosphere of calm and serenity that invites you to sit, pause, and simply be present.
The valleys you walk through and the countless streams you cross often make you feel as though you have stepped into a Hollywood fantasy. At times, it feels like your pet dragon might swoop down from the skies to carry you away. At others, it seems as though you are on a quest to discover a hidden treasure.
And then there is the beautiful Changthang Valley and its semi-nomadic inhabitants. They live in large octagonal tents called rebos, woven from thick yak wool and anchored by stone walls. Their lives revolve around raising Pashmina goats, whose ultra-fine undercoat helps them survive the brutal winters and eventually becomes the world-famous pashmina wool. They also herd sheep, yaks, and horses that provide milk, meat, and transport. Warm and welcoming, they often invite visitors into their rebos, where you can learn about their way of life and sample fresh goat milk and local cheese.
Overall, Rumtse to Tsomoriri is a trek that challenges you physically, tests your resilience, and pushes the limits of your resolve. Yet as you cross six high passes, three of them higher than Everest Base Camp, the mountains do not make you feel invincible. Instead, they leave you feeling humbled, grounded, and deeply grateful. In the vastness of the landscape, you realize how small you are, and yet how capable you can be. That, perhaps, is the greatest gift of this extraordinary journey.
PS: 6 passes covered with elevation:
- Kyamar La: 5,090 meters (16,700 ft)
- Mandalchan La: 5,175 meters (16,976 ft)
- Shibuk La: 5,257 meters (17,248 ft)
- Kyamayuri La: 5,400 meters (17,713 ft)
- Kartse La: 5,370 meters (17,614 ft)
- Yalung Nyau La (highest pass): 5,414 meters (17,760 ft)
About the author:
Anuradha is a finance professional with over three decades of experience, a proud mother of two daughters, and a passionate traveler. An outdoor enthusiast and adventure seeker at heart. For more than a decade, the Himalayas have been an integral part of her life. Through trekking, she has discovered not only breathtaking landscapes but also valuable lessons in resilience, perseverance, humility, and self-discovery. Every journey into the mountains has left her with stories and experiences that extend far beyond the trail.
Attaching author’s photo.
